Veneer-tape tactics

I've been building quite a few projects lately out of birch plywood, including bookcases, shelving units and tabletops. I like using birch ply because it's readily available, not-too expensive, and it accepts stain, varnish or paint beautifully.

However, when building with plywood you must conceal any exposed edges with solid-wood strips or veneer. I typically use hardwood veneer edging on plywood parts that won't have to support an excessive amount of weight.

More specifically I prefer using iron-on veneer tape. It's a bit more expensive than plain, dry-backed veneer, but it's well worth the additional cost.

Iron-on veneer tape comes in two basic widths: 13/16 inch and 1 9/16 inch, as shown at right.

The narrower veneer is used to conceal the edges of 3/4-inch-thick plywood; the wider veneer is used on 1 1/2-inch-thick pieces, such as tabletops, that are made of two thicknesses of 3/4-inch plywood.

However, the best thing about iron-on veneer tape is that its back surface is coated with heat-sensitive adhesive. Simply set the veneer onto the plywood and press it down with a hot clothes iron. (Set the iron to "cotton," no steam.)

Within a few seconds the adhesive melts and fuses the veneer in place. But, to ensure a long-lasting bond, it's important to immediately rub down the veneer with a wooden block, as shown below.

Once the veneer cools, use a single-cut mill bastard file to shave the veneer flush with the plywood.

Iron-on veneer tape is available in various wood species, including birch, walnut, oak, cherry, maple and mahogany. It's sold at most home centers and through on-line woodworking catalogs. Expect to pay about $25 for a 50-foot roll of 13/16-inch-wide veneer.